As I say, these parks are full of micro climates. From here to Lake Victoria, I detected no change in altitude—we never climbed or descended, but here in Ndutu it is much cooler in the morning.
Later in the day...
We blasted from Ndutu back to Karatu where we turned off for the four-hour drive to Lake Natron Tented Camp. The drive was nine hours altogether, but the four-hour stretch was on THE most amazing road. We had to drive very slowly much of the way, crossing rivers and dealing with huge ruts and bumps, but the overwhelming challenge to the drive is the result of an eruption of a volcano here a that began on Setember 4th, 2007, and stopped sometime in 2008.
Steve: remember my delighting seeing the obsidian fields and the cinder cone in Eastern Washington? Well this volcano (Oldonyo Lengai; Lengai is either the name of a God or the word for God) is stupendous; huge rocks thrown out of the volcano litter the landscape, we crossed scores of ash-filled creeks, dry beds and rivers, and sheets of lava and big chunks of basalt. But the stunning thing about the black ash that is everywhere, is that is glistens in the sunlight like luminescence in the sea. And all in a lush scrub valley that will be bone dry in the hot season. I am so glad I came while all is green.
After turning off the main road, it got hotter and hotter. So when Cyprian turned off the road, my heart sank a little. (for most of the drive, I am on the hot side of the car, by choice to ride with him in the front.) but the road led to a small crater (Shimo Lamungo) near the volcano that was a totally unexpected and FABULOUS experience. I mean, you can stand right on the edge and look straight down! It is frighteningly beautiful. And there was a group of Masai women there, gently selling beads, but also seemingly taking total delight in singing and dancing. Why? Because they, and another guide and his client, and two Masai gentlemen we're all smoking marijuana. Cryspian and I each had one puff; I think it helped us deal with the rest of the road.
We got to the camp at 5:00, and yet another amazing, brilliant difference. We are in Masai country, and this lodge is Masai run. It is indescribably fulfilling to be interacting with these people whom I so badly wanted to meet, but out of the context of Masai-Disney. As I sit on my deck writing, four young girls are playing catch and frequently waving to me. And at the natural pool, a troop of mischievous velvet monkeys hypnotize me.
It is 37 degrees. I had a cold shower al fresco. Have I mentioned yet that I am coming back here?
From today, in point form:
There are 3-4 million wildebeests in East Africa. They migrate in a huge circle between the Masai Mara and here. Right now, they are here to calve. They fill a 180 degree horizon on the ENDLESS flat plain.
We have been seeing so many lions and cheetahs and leopards because they are here to feed on the births. 40% of the newborns will become food for the wildlife here. They also eat the placentas.
There are no trees on the plain; no shade, but zillions of billions of square kilometers of food (grass)—all in parks and game reserves.
Masai kids four and five (and up) work small and large herds of animals everywhere.
I suspect this country turns a lot of people in birders.
This past spring, Mary-Lou and I stayed in, and visited, the historic and beautiful French village of Chinon. The past few days have been the exultant experience of the Serengeti. Both these places are U.N. World Heritage Sites, and so is Stonetown, Zanzibar where I go on Thursday. So this year I will have visited three U.N. World Heritage Sites.
Sitting by the fire before dinner, upwind of its heat, but feeling the natural wind blowing hot against me even at 8:00. It's now about 28 degrees; sleeping may be difficult and damp. Sadly, the breeze stopped to I sweated to bed. Goodnight.
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