Dear readers, Bwana really disappointed himself (and perhaps others) today. When Ciprian picked me up, Azis was with us and I did not expect that. And then we had to go to a local tourism office where I was asked to complete a questionnaire about Azis' services but Azis was standing there watching me choose "poor," "good" or "excellent." So I used the back to say that I felt uncomfortable judging people from other countries, said he was "fine" and left. But I let myself work myself into a significant snit, and told Ciprian I was angry and I acted like a petulant child. This happened at 10:30 am.
Then we picked up his daughter and I took her into my lap. That produced an instant change of heart in me and I have spent the rest of today apologizing and begging his forgiveness. I gave her the decorated gourd.
It's now 6:30, and only now have I been able to think about anything except how badly I behaved. Ciprian forgave me; he has to, he wants a tip. But it could easily be sincere. It made no difference; I am having trouble forgiving myself. But maybe I have learned a lesson. I the midst of my snit, I said to myself, "Let it go." But I didn't. Next time, Bwana will try harder.
We arrived at Ngorongoro Farm House at 11:30. It is owned by the same company that operates Maramboi Tented Camp, the first camp I stayed at here. They run an exceptional, but impersonal, operation. I am living in high style in a 500 acre organic farm and all the crop is used here in the restaurant. By far, the largest crop is coffee.
A tour of the farm at 4:30. Dancing women at 6:30, sitting around the fire pit on the deck for a diet coke and some blog writing, and then dinner. On the tour, I met Anaat Merali, a lovely woman of Indian descent who has a motel in Burnaby, a business in Kenya where she lives and a hotel in Zanzibar. he has given me references for my stay there!
Then, early to bed because we leave here to go to the renowned Ngorongoro crater at 6:30 tomorrow morning and, I believe, a Masai village where the dignified Masai will dance, out of cultural context, for the tourists. Still, I will see their costumes and bead work.
Dinner was fantastic—all organic and grown here. Ive been eating vegetarian, so it was a taste festival in my mouth (chocolate syrup on banana for dessert). Then it was time to go back to my room which is a few minutes walk.
Now you have to understand that at Maramboi, Kinimuru and here there are guards along the walk and I thought they were... Well, I really didn't think much about the but I had noticed they were armed with rifles or bows and arrows and flashlights. Recently, as a result of a discussion with other travelers here and, Tom, one of there security officers here at Ngorongoro Farm House, that they are there to protect us from animals (particularly hyenas and, rarely, leopards) and burglars. Who knew! I also found out that here, because I am alone, I am supposed to phone reception after dark and request and escort. Then, two guys come to my cabin and then the three of us walk to the dining room.
Well, fresh with this entitlement, I walked to my room unescorted last night. I was too embarrassed to ask for security now just because I knew something that I'd been ignoring the while trip so far. And on the way home, as I was walking a large German shepherd dog emerged out of the coffee plants and I thought I would die. H is one of four large dogs here who are part of the security tea here at night.
The "Big Five" here are the elephant, lion, rhino, buffalo and leopard. I have seen all but the leopard. I don't expect to see one, but don't care at all. All these animals are coexisting in the reserves, even the lions. You see bones about so you know life is being lived in all it's glory but I see no aggression except the display behavior in baboons.
As we left the park, we stopped to sign out. While waiting in the car, a pack of baboons came up over the hill and one of them hopped up on the empty truck beside me and did all he could to get in through the window and by the handle.
The other news: By noon, I was feeling poorly. I had a blazing headache and felt really faint, so I told Ciprian I had to go back to the hotel. As we headed back, it very suddenly clouded over and a torrential rain with hail started pounding down. Our road up the crater was a river and visibility was a challenge in the sheeting rain and the mist. Perfect timing for bad weather, I thought, since i feels like crap anyway. We got back at 3:00 and I went to bed.
Reflecting on today, I was thrilled to see the rhinos, the particular pride of Ngorongoro. But I have to say, every time I go out, I never tire of the zebras. As numerous as area are, they are just so stunningly beautiful and charming. And ostriches, even though now I have seen dozens of them, are just so amazing and today, seeing the mating ritual that involves full use of those wings and feathers, was wonderful.
And finally, as impressive as the animals is we're landscape—enhanced even more by the presence of the animals. I will never ever forget the sight of nine giraffes walking at their particular slow lope, one after the other in a long line in the diminishing light of late afternoon across a vast, vast open landscape that stretched flat to the horizon.
Weaver bird nest.
Weaver bird.
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