Aswan and Abu Simbel

Dear Readers,

After saying so much for the past few days, today there is little to report. It was largely a day for coughing and blowing my nose, but Osama and I went to the old Aswan Dam (ho hum) and then the new High Dam (ho hum), the Unfinished Obelisk and then we took a boat to the relocated Philae Temple.

I came back to the altar for lunch and cancelled the trip I bought to sail on a Felucca. There was no wind, it is stinking hot and I'd be trapped on a about with Osama and the boat operator.... Not my cup of tea.

The delight of the day has been Serge and Frédérique. They are friends who have know each other twenty years. Serge is, perhaps in his fifties, and a chef; Frédérique is an artist! We met yesterday and ate together last night, but this afternoon, while Serge rested, Frédérique and I had a very nice talk. I wish we had met sooner. He is sweet, French, quite open and it is a delight to have someone to talk with. He bout my coke last night, and when he and Serge left to do something tonight, he was sure to say that we would eat together tonight.



It was nice to relax here where the touts cannot get me, in comfort and with a bath after a day of rest sometimes in the sun, sometimes in the shade. It is very hot here. I depart at 6:30 tomorrow morning for the airport to go to Abu Simble. This piece is in the heart of Egyptians. Wiki it! Then a stay in a hotel here in Aswan, and then on Saturday, another early departure, this time to return to Cairo. I pushed myself to ask for my flight to be changed to earlier in the day so that I can go to the Egyptian Museum. I told Emco, my host agency here, regardless of what is going on in Tahrir Square this time, if the Museum is open, I am going in.

Then Sunday, my birthday—the pyramids at Giza, the Sphinx, Memphis and the Complex of Sakkara. How's that for a way to celebrate being 64! Then Chapter Two of my epic vacation comes to a close as Monday, I head for East Africa, landing in Nairobi.

Later, Thursday...

Gobsmacked! Serge rested, Frédérique and their guide, Denise, dined together and it was lovely. Denise is sick with a bad cold like me, too. in fact, I notice a lot of people coughing and wheezing around me. After dinner, Serge went to their room an d i decided to join Frédérique on the top deck while he has a cigarette. We talk for a bit, sometimes in English because I think he likes to practice and he does very well, and then out of nowhere, he gives be a BEAUTIFUL scarf and an Egyptian amulet to wear.

He wants to give me strength, he said. He has seen my timidity. And he said the nicest things to me and coming from a stranger who wants nothing from me, it was, like so many things on this trip, overwhelming. But this time I was being overwhelmed by a living person. Frédérique is turning 40 on Dec. 6; I turn 64 on Dec. 5. We both work in the visual arts, so our connection was wonderful.

Friday...

This morning I had to meet my ride at 6:30. As I waited, down came Frédérique to wait with me and to say goodbye. When I got in the cab, I was heart broken to leave them—particularly Frédérique. Back to being on my own. So off I go to Abu Simble.

Well that is weird. Up at 6:00 to be at the airport in time to go to Abu Simbel. The flight is half an hour; we are very close to Syria and in what was once Nubia. When we land, your guide finds you and steers you to the correct bus. As I have said, this is industrial tourism. The bus ride is 15 minutes. When we arrive, we hurry to the monument because the mob that comes from Aswan by bus must leave by 9:00 and. That means my group of 12 English people plus moi will have the tomb to ourselves.











I am first off the bus and first into the tomb. In fact, for 5 minutes, I am totally alone inside. The group resembles in the shade of a tree to listen to more explanation about the site and it's history. Then we have a little more free time before it is back to the airport for the flight back to Aswan. It is stinking hot; the sun practically burns your skin. In summer here, the temperatures stay in the fifties!! (Mimosa below, like in Nice!)


We are a fairly large plane and we are full. Everyone has gone to all this expense and devoted so much time to see Abu Simble, but in fact, one has very little lime actually there. Now, Iam back on the pane in Abu Simble heading back to Aswan (and the rumored, nice hotel, the Basma).

Note:
1. Have I mentioned that the famous scarab is actually a dung beetle?
2. I am pining for Frédérique's scintillating company.
3. My cold is awful.
4. There are flies everywhere!

OK, the Basma Hotel. It is like a resort. I have two balconies: one is HUGE with two deck chairs and the other is small. The cross ventilation with two walls of sliding glass doors is spectacular. There is a pool (that I won't use), and restaurants and bars and stores and the most beautiful and refreshing terrace bar where I ordered two cokes. I should be sleeping, but I can't resist this bar for lentil soup and a garden salad and some chilling.


Yesterday, feeling crappy and headachy, I decided to take some aspirin, and without thinking, on the boat, I turned on the tap and took my pills with a glass of tap water. At dinner, I told Serge, Frédérique and Denise, and they all panicked—Denise especially. She went to her room and returned with some medications and she told me to take one right then, so I did. I don't even know what it was, but so far, so good. I have a lovely bath tub and nice beds; a nap is in order after lunch. (My deck at the Basma.)


There were so others here in the restaurant when I arrived, but they have all gone and I am alone with five waiters.even with the worst cold I have had in a long, long time, this is an exceptional experience. And although this is like no travel experience that I have ever had before (travel agent, drivers picking me up at the airport, someone calling me sir all the time, guides, TIPPING, the whole package), this is a fabulous way to go if you can swallow the bill. And feeling so weak, this is perfect.

I feel a little like a rock star—flying to a site like Abu Simbel and back in the morning, and this luxury in the afternoon. All this and free Internet!!

Location:Al Fanadek,,Egypt