Thursday, December 8, 2011

Friday Morning, Maramboi




Your scribe, Bwana, last night on his deck.

Dinner last night was DELICIOUS. Soup, salad (and the combination of beets and papaya was to die for) and a varied and exotic meal. A small smorgasbord is brought to each large table and I was able to have a fabulous dinner of only vegetables.

I was a veggie in my twenties and in the last few years I have avoided meat and now I am even more resolved to avoid it. Tho of you who have known me a l one time will believe this because I can say: I think I have had one White Spot Hamburger in the last two years. (They we're my love and I used to have one a week.)

Today we go to Manyara National Park. Having to leave here makes me feel as I might we're I to hear that North America exploded and disappeared into the sea. Crappy sleeping, that happens sometimes with me no matter where I am, but I got to hear the sounds of the night. (My cough will not get better without sleep though!)

Below, sunrise in my room. Goodbye Zanadu!



Location:A 104,Maguga,Tanzania

Tanganire National Park, Part 2

Turtles ( big) crossing the road.

Everything gets carried on the head. Maybe that is one reason why people have such impressive and elegant posture.

Enormous termite colonies that, as in India, become homes for snakes and mongeese when abandoned.


Elephants 7000-8000 kilos; Tarangire National Park.








A minor tragedy today. We stopped at a tourist trap and while there, two tiny kittens i saw climbed into the undercarriage of our truck. I discovered this at the entrance to the park, after driving for two hours, because I heard them crying, but they would not let me help them out. They are feral. I told Crispian, and he said they would hop when we stopped. For quite a while I heard them mewing and my heart was broken.

At the entrance to the park, our truck is sprayed to discourage TseTse flies.

Crispian spots two cheetahs. I think Crispian could see an ant on the moon.





We are between 2 and 3 degrees south of the equator. This is my first time in the southern hemisphere; should I be checking which way the water goes down the toilet?


First lion (lioness),!!! What a face!!!!


The women's cries when I bought the necklace from them at a women's cooperative. They warbled/chanted with glee. I made their day and they made my year.


Thank God I am not in a group. Sardines in a tin tuck on a day when it is 35 degrees. I fade at 3:00 in his heat.



Tanangire National Park, Part 1

I love this pattern: an extraordinary day, shower and clean clothes, diet coke and writing to you. Again, in point form....

Arusha is rather polluted, but what I see on the street is fascinating to see. Our drive is about three hours to the park.


I am starting to suspect something political or ??? because Cristian seemed quite concerned when i was taking photos of the city and especially when I was trying to take a photo of a soldier but it wasn't the soldier i was snapping, it was the jacaranda tree beside the soldier that interested me. I could feel his relief when I said it was the tree. (Below is one of the Christmas Trees, not a Jacaranda.)


Being stuck behind a truck belching black smoke is a drag here in paradise.

There are forests of cactus flowers 3 meters tall—Crispian calls them ciso—and after blooming, they die.

Robins, but blue and rust, not the muddy black colour of ours.


Right now, the view is like looking out over an ocean of green. From horizon to horizon an ocean of verdant plain.





The breathtaking posture and colour and beauty of the Masai men I see.

Massive trucks for taking about 20 people on safari. Cristian laughed a lot when I told him the thought of.touring with 20 other people would make me vomit. (Below is a small truck, like mine, but with sardines.)


The round Masai huts are beyond picturesque. It is like I have entered into a National Geographic Magazine.



Maramboi Tented Camp

Dear readers,

If I gave you the impression that yesterday could have been the best day if my life, today is yesterday times two. It is 5:30 pm and I am in the lobby of Maramboi camp. Zebras and impalas are grazing in the immense, I mean IMMENSE plain surrounding the lodge which is on the shores of Lake Manyara. There is a pool, better Internet than in Arusha and when I arrived here, we were greeted with mango juice and a perfumed cold cloth to refresh with. I have NEVER EVER stayed in a more beautiful and impressive place!

Now I am on the deck, enjoying the sunset and the most pleasant emotional/spiritual feeling I can ever remember having. Below are photos of this lodge. I will write a separate post about my day in and getting to Tanganire National Park where we spent the afternoon.

Pause... While I monitor a bumblebee the size of my little finger!

Later, a minute walk from my cabin to the lodge, lighted by kerosene lanterns. Dove song and twilight. Before Christians named it heaven, it's name was Maramboi Tented Camp.

The lodge, from the pool path.


The pool, with zebras (that you can't see) in the plain beyond.


The bar, where I am right now.


A fellow carries my bag to my tent. The tent has a thatched roof. Over it, but it's a tent.


Bedroom.


Bathroom.


My deck.


My view.



Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Goodbye Arusha

Mmmmm.... Papaya finger jam on my toast!

I am headed for two weeks in tent camps and will likely not have Internet access. So who knows what is ahead. Also, my blog posting software crashed so this is an improvisation. With luck, this message will post and with more luck, I will be able to download another Blogpress app. Without it, I can't post photos. Damn!

Leftover shots from Arusha

Appetizer?





Thorn trees can get huge, and when they are their bark is yellow. These thorns are about 30 cms long.


Lovely sparrow sized back and white birds build these nests at the ends of thorn tree branches and colonies of them can make a grove of trees look like a gothic Tim Burton-y christmas.












Acres of flamingos.



Arusha National Park

Dear readers,

Out of respect for your time and sensibilities, I will be brief and summarize today in point form. Also, I will judiciously edit my photos and thereby, I hope, earn your deeper interest on my return, and I will pay attention to my use of superlatives. But a bit of background before the points about today.

It is 5:00 and in my room. Wet laundry is hanging all around me; it is the laundry I had to do THAT WAS IN MY LUGGAGE. Yes, dear readers, my feet are up, my diet cole is poured, I am listening to my favorite music on my iPad as I write, my rug is open on my bed, I've had a shower and done my laundry. Paradise in paradise! And I have had a day that makes me want to spend the rest of my like swerving the God who gave me this day. Can you feel the love?

I discovered today from Crispian that it will be him and me and this truck for the next fifteen days. The truck will get us from camp to camp and to, and sometimes through, all the sites. I also discovered that the fees I paid for this safari include all meals.


The truck has a roof that pops up. It allows me to comfortably stand up and peer out with a 360 degree view and there is a roof, thank God, to keep the sun off. The truck seats nine, so here is piles of room an, being alone, there is no competition for the choice viewing space.


In other words, I have my own personal chauffeur for the next fifteen days and, having made him laugh a few times and asked about his children, I feel very comfortable with him. When we were coming in from the airport, he asked me what I wanted to see most and I said, "I don't care what I see or what I will miss. I will be very happy with whatever happens, I promise." He said today that when I said that I became a person, not a client. Nice eh!

Also, I am tempted to say, "animals shmanimals," because, honestly, yes, zebras look just l Ike zebras do in books, but the trees, flowers, insects, birds—even the weeds—are unexpected and beyond adjectives and this element of discovery or revelation surpasses, in a way, the siting of the animals.


The wings of the dragonfly-like beastie below are transparent except for the black boxes that when the insects fly, make it look like there are three bugs flying in formation.


Yesterday I wanted to come home. Today I want to stay here forever because, I will say it again, the experience of the people here surpasses the that of the animals and matches that of the flora. I'm not kidding, everyone here, even on the street, make you feel like a person of worth and value. There is an interpersonal dignity and respect evident in every single encounter and it turns you into an equally lovely person. I find myself reflecting their magnanimity and living the nicest way of life I have ever experienced.

So class, question: Do you think the writer is having a good time?

Now about today ....

Arusha National Park

The smell of earth is my first impression. You can smell the flowers and the fruit and the humidity. Even the dung smells good, like hay, not where your nose might be thinking.

Swarms of blue butterflies.


Cotton grows wild everywhere. Where there are trees, at high altitudes or in groves on the plain, the lush undergrowth is breathtakingly beautiful.

Seeing two separate groups of a dozen giraffes. What is a group of giraffes, a neck of giraffes?


Huge jasmine trees—like 20 meters.

It took landscape photographs and that is something I normally never do. They're boring. But not to me; not here.





I've never been on the edge of a crater and there are scads of them here. We'll be going to the most famous one—Ngorongoro—but we went to Ngurodoto crater today. A verdant paradise.



God is in details. After only a few hours behind us, Crispian realized the degree of my interest in plants when he saw me photographing the tiny orchid-like weeds. "They're weeds," he said. "Beauty is beauty," I said. He loved that.

Lots of water bucks and bushbucks—antelope like stately creatures.

There are lots of plants with waxy, shiny leaves that would be sad to see in the dry season because they get covered in dust.

At one point we had stopped to look at something and Crispian pointed out that high on a hill a ways off you could see a solitary giraffe.


I ran into Craig and Ann, two extravagantly lovely people from Australia who I met in the lineup to report lost luggage. By then it was noon and Crispian had had a call to say my luggage was on its way to me but theirs had not turned up anywhere yet.

Lunch was a picnic box lunch that was way too much for me to eat. We ate at Small Momella Lake. We ate in the car because it is just too hot here for me to be in the sun.


The birdsong, even during midday, is extraordinary but NOTHING compared to when we ps through a glad of trees and all the cicadas are trying to see blood coming out of your ears.

There are bird of paradise plants here that are two meters tall. And the Plumeria here re trees not plants. They are huge like a large dogwood and dense with blossoms, so it is not just the giant 20 meter Jasmine trees that make the air so sweet.

When I went to get the diet coke to sip while writing this blog post I heard a yelp so I looked to the sound—PUPPIES. Animals you could touch, so off I went. They belong to the community of people who work here and the woman present said I could come to see the puppies. In seconds, I was sitting on the ground with two pups gleeful to be playing with F. A. Bwana.

Location:Vijana Rd,Arusha,Tanzania