This is an herb store I happened upon whilst searching for the restaurant I want to which I want to return. And just outside, an employee was roasting almonds. Walking through a working zone—not the tourist dominated kind of street—was super interesting. I loved seeing all the tiny working ateliers.
Saturday, November 19, 2011
Saturday's Only Benefit
This is an herb store I happened upon whilst searching for the restaurant I want to which I want to return. And just outside, an employee was roasting almonds. Walking through a working zone—not the tourist dominated kind of street—was super interesting. I loved seeing all the tiny working ateliers.
Saturday in the Rain
Friday night was pretty awful. Although I had been walking around all day—I mean for likely five hours, I could not get to sleep. It did not help that the rooster (or roosters) across the street crowed all night, perhaps because several new chickens were delivered last night. So at 3:00 I took half an Atavan and slept until 8:30, and thank goodness because lack of sleep can lead to immune defense difficulties.
It was cloudy when I went out. I decided to head into town to get a bus ticket for tomorrow to go to Agadir. As I say often, God loves me; I got the last ticket. My bus leaves at 2:00 tomorrow and is scheduled to arrive in Agadir at 5:00.
Then I went to see if I could find the beautiful little square that I happened on yesterday. I had wanted to find it last night, but chose the place I went to after giving up the search—the medina is a maze and, as I say, I have no map. Then it started to rain. I had a hat and my new light anti-mosquito coat, and they helped me stay reasonably dry as I walked the walk home in 30 minutes instead of the usual 45. I was soaked when I got home though, and felt cold. It felt good to get changed and into bed to read and write.
I have virtually no experience with being alone on vacation when it has rained. The only times I have had rain while on holiday were in Palm Springs, but both times I was with Steve and we had a car and could easily adapt. Essaouira is designed completely around the outdoors. The rain, therefore, has me inside. Outside is dark and WET. I did not plan for this, and although I like the efficiency of ebooks, they are not fun to curl up with like a real book. My New Yorker app is fulfilling, however.
*
When Bruce and I were in India and we returned home one night to find our hotel chained and padlocked. As Bruce tells the story, when he turned to ask me what I thought we should do, I was gone. I believe I left my shoes behind, but as soon as I saw that lock, my response was immediate: nothing was going to keep me away from my things and my bed! I climbed the wall of the Mosque next door, jumped to the roof of the hotel and woke some hotel workers asleep in the courtyard. Very Indiana Jones, considering this was in Jaisalmer, India, very close to the Pakistan border.
That story speaks to a certain adaptability. In some respects, I am fearless and can have unlimited faith in myself—like when, in my late twenties, I took on the design, fundraising, construction and management of a small public theatre with virtually no relevant experience. But I had not a shred of doubt about what had to be done and how to do it. And I did it well. But alone and on the road, I can be total chicken. All my introvert genes come to the fore, and I know that it is not things or challenges that I fear, it's people. I walk a lot rather than have to deal with taxi drivers, and I even have to work to get into a restaurant when I travel. I am a scaredy cat, but if someone comes to join me, their presence gives me confidence plus a certain sense of responsibility, as when friends came to visit me in India.
*
It seems clear that the day will be spent here in the room until, regardless of the weather, I will go out to eat at a restaurant—something close by. Rain was not part of my plan—during nine months in India,I never saw clouds, let alone rain.
It was cloudy when I went out. I decided to head into town to get a bus ticket for tomorrow to go to Agadir. As I say often, God loves me; I got the last ticket. My bus leaves at 2:00 tomorrow and is scheduled to arrive in Agadir at 5:00.
Then I went to see if I could find the beautiful little square that I happened on yesterday. I had wanted to find it last night, but chose the place I went to after giving up the search—the medina is a maze and, as I say, I have no map. Then it started to rain. I had a hat and my new light anti-mosquito coat, and they helped me stay reasonably dry as I walked the walk home in 30 minutes instead of the usual 45. I was soaked when I got home though, and felt cold. It felt good to get changed and into bed to read and write.
I have virtually no experience with being alone on vacation when it has rained. The only times I have had rain while on holiday were in Palm Springs, but both times I was with Steve and we had a car and could easily adapt. Essaouira is designed completely around the outdoors. The rain, therefore, has me inside. Outside is dark and WET. I did not plan for this, and although I like the efficiency of ebooks, they are not fun to curl up with like a real book. My New Yorker app is fulfilling, however.
*
When Bruce and I were in India and we returned home one night to find our hotel chained and padlocked. As Bruce tells the story, when he turned to ask me what I thought we should do, I was gone. I believe I left my shoes behind, but as soon as I saw that lock, my response was immediate: nothing was going to keep me away from my things and my bed! I climbed the wall of the Mosque next door, jumped to the roof of the hotel and woke some hotel workers asleep in the courtyard. Very Indiana Jones, considering this was in Jaisalmer, India, very close to the Pakistan border.
That story speaks to a certain adaptability. In some respects, I am fearless and can have unlimited faith in myself—like when, in my late twenties, I took on the design, fundraising, construction and management of a small public theatre with virtually no relevant experience. But I had not a shred of doubt about what had to be done and how to do it. And I did it well. But alone and on the road, I can be total chicken. All my introvert genes come to the fore, and I know that it is not things or challenges that I fear, it's people. I walk a lot rather than have to deal with taxi drivers, and I even have to work to get into a restaurant when I travel. I am a scaredy cat, but if someone comes to join me, their presence gives me confidence plus a certain sense of responsibility, as when friends came to visit me in India.
*
It seems clear that the day will be spent here in the room until, regardless of the weather, I will go out to eat at a restaurant—something close by. Rain was not part of my plan—during nine months in India,I never saw clouds, let alone rain.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Friday Night
It is 8:00 pm and I am in a restaurant in the medina. To my left is a gay couple and in between them is a mature woman. they are American. The men are about 40; the woman is about 70. One man is relentlessly polite to the woman; the other is embarrassingly and consistently short with her. I'm going to assume they are pouty spoilt man, his boyfriend and his mother. Now, they are eating in silence and again I am reminded of how I idealize the family (and having so little experience).
But how glad I am I came out tonight. I walked 45 minutes it takes to get to the medina and then walked through town until I could find a restaurant that featured the low bank style of eating. And here I am with la reine et ses files.
The medina is just as busy tonight as it was in the day, but there is the "edge" that evening has—guys hissing and offering hash and guys siding up to you to shake your hand. But they are easy to dismiss or ignore. In the photos I post of tonight's walk you will see the crowds, the fish market, the towers of spices as they are sold here and my dinner. Normally, I do not go out much at all at night when I travel alone, but it is telling of this city and it's people that I feel no trepidation whatsoever about being out and about. And tomorrow promises more joy!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
But how glad I am I came out tonight. I walked 45 minutes it takes to get to the medina and then walked through town until I could find a restaurant that featured the low bank style of eating. And here I am with la reine et ses files.
The medina is just as busy tonight as it was in the day, but there is the "edge" that evening has—guys hissing and offering hash and guys siding up to you to shake your hand. But they are easy to dismiss or ignore. In the photos I post of tonight's walk you will see the crowds, the fish market, the towers of spices as they are sold here and my dinner. Normally, I do not go out much at all at night when I travel alone, but it is telling of this city and it's people that I feel no trepidation whatsoever about being out and about. And tomorrow promises more joy!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Essaouira Images 1
This is where the fishermen clean the fish at the port.
The square where I had lunch. Notice —no people. (Click on images to enlarge them.)
Lunch. Couscous-vegetarian.
(Broken) water fountain.
Essaouira HoliDAY 1
I have to write this: when I first visited my travel agent for this trip, Valerie, I knew that I wanted to come to Morocco but I had no preferences beyond that, so when she asked me where I wanted to go exactly, I said, "I don't know. Is Essaouaria in Morocco?" She wasn't sure. So when I got home, I looked it up, and sure enough....
So here I am, almost by mistake, in paradise. It is very quiet here. As I write this, I am listening to lovely soft jazz on the radio and sitting in the shade in a vegetarian restaurant, served by a handsome server in leather pants. Pristinely clean, and in THE most picturesque square.
Still without a map and void of research, I headed to the beach this morning thinking I could walk along it to the old town, the medina. Have I mentioned that this place is paradise? It is a lovely, easy, tranquil point of entry for my adventure. Historic, beautiful beyond description and full of courteous people.
This culture is to colour as Cuba is to music. Every landscape and the shops are a feast for the eye. The medina is like all others, but unique at the same time of course. It is full of tourist boutiques, but it feels like off season here. I am alone in this restaurant and the streets seem almost empty and I couldn't be happier.
I feel absolutely blessed to be here. There is no other word for how I feel: to be healthy and able to come to a place like this... Oh my God, this place, today, I am stoned on its beauty. Truth: one reason I feel so gloriously blessed is that today began with emails containing thousands of dollars in orders for my books—both of them. This is an expensive trip because in East Africa I have engaged a lot of guides/drivers, but my book orders total half the cost of my trip! God knows my number.
Paradise! It is 3:00 pm. I LOVE this late eating habit I have on the road and I LOVE that I can speak with these people in one of their official languages. It is a miracle to be in a foreign an environment but able to speak with everyone. Paradise!
With lunch eaten, I think it is time for a long walk along the beach, then home to refresh and then back toward the Medina for a late dinner I think. The call to prayer just began and I love it too!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
So here I am, almost by mistake, in paradise. It is very quiet here. As I write this, I am listening to lovely soft jazz on the radio and sitting in the shade in a vegetarian restaurant, served by a handsome server in leather pants. Pristinely clean, and in THE most picturesque square.
Still without a map and void of research, I headed to the beach this morning thinking I could walk along it to the old town, the medina. Have I mentioned that this place is paradise? It is a lovely, easy, tranquil point of entry for my adventure. Historic, beautiful beyond description and full of courteous people.
This culture is to colour as Cuba is to music. Every landscape and the shops are a feast for the eye. The medina is like all others, but unique at the same time of course. It is full of tourist boutiques, but it feels like off season here. I am alone in this restaurant and the streets seem almost empty and I couldn't be happier.
I feel absolutely blessed to be here. There is no other word for how I feel: to be healthy and able to come to a place like this... Oh my God, this place, today, I am stoned on its beauty. Truth: one reason I feel so gloriously blessed is that today began with emails containing thousands of dollars in orders for my books—both of them. This is an expensive trip because in East Africa I have engaged a lot of guides/drivers, but my book orders total half the cost of my trip! God knows my number.
Paradise! It is 3:00 pm. I LOVE this late eating habit I have on the road and I LOVE that I can speak with these people in one of their official languages. It is a miracle to be in a foreign an environment but able to speak with everyone. Paradise!
With lunch eaten, I think it is time for a long walk along the beach, then home to refresh and then back toward the Medina for a late dinner I think. The call to prayer just began and I love it too!
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Posting Procedures
Blogpress, as I wrote a post ago or so, is not working properly and often crashes, but I know of no other way to post to this blog. So I am adapting. It is easier for me not to mix images and text, so my posts will reflect that. I suspect readers will find that the pattern is ... a bunch of images followed by the day from which they came.
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad
Location:شارع العقبة,Essaouira,Morocco
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